It all started as a seed planted into our brains.
Members of the Waikato group for DOCNZ kept suggesting whether we would be keen on doing the World Presidents Tour if our president and vice-president weren’t going. There were a lot of yes, maybe, no, maybe, and yeses. We finally decided, for the first time ever, to do a 10-day Swiss, Italian, and Austrian Alps tour followed by the World Presidents Tour and the World Ducati Weekend!
Part One!
It started with a quick visit to see family in the UK. We did a few days of bike travel on a Multi V2. It started out a bit lumpy but once in sport mode, it picked up the pace. Roads around the countryside were a lot like our B and C roads. Although the Brits do love their hedges. At one point, as we were doing some tight twisties, I thought: "I wonder if this was like what Luke Skywalker felt as he was hurtling through the trenches on the Death Star."
By the time we got used to the V2 (kind of), we returned it and progressed onto Milan to meet our guide, Francesco (from Central Italian Motorcycle Tours). This would be the man who would lead us to the first part of a wicked riding adventure. The first day was to pick up the bike and then head into the city for dinner. The bike was a V4s Multistrada. Big and heavy. What we now refer to as "The Behemoth." At dinner, Francesco opened up a huge map and proceeded to show us where we would go. Day by day, he would highlight the route taken.
Day 01
It was an early start as we wanted to beat the heat coming into Milan. Heading north, we skirted around the outside of Milan and headed towards the left-hand side of Lake Maggiore. We stopped at Charlie Brown Cafe in Belgirate (apparently, there are a few of these cafes around Italy). We then turned left at Cannobio and had a quick rest stop at Malesco before heading over the Simplon Pass.
Now we were in Switzerland. From there, we went into Brig for lunch at Granini. Then over the Furkess Pass. Blooming heck! What a time to tackle a wicked and dangerous pass! Pouring with rain. Whiteout on top. Sheer drops with no guard rails. Not a good time to get used to the Behemoth. By the time we finished the pass, I really did think twice about the choice of bike.
We finally arrived at Andermatt and, once we checked into our hotel, it was a quick hot shower and dinner for a hard-earned drink! Phew.
We watched England beat Switzerland in soccer. Not too many happy people in the pub! We did a quick walk around Andermatt to find the cows with the cowbells but stumbled upon two special cars instead. Such an odd place to find them.
Charlie Brown Cafe!
McLaren and a Dallara - NICE!
Day 2
This morning, the fog rolled in, so we had a bit of time before heading off. I changed the bike's setting from Touring (which I was advised to keep it on) to Sport. I bumped the ABS and traction control back to the Touring setting, as I wanted a more responsive power delivery than the sluggish feel it had yesterday. I also adjusted the rider height position, which had been set for a Neanderthal. Hoping these changes would make me feel a bit more confident with the Multistrada. The fog was still thick, so we went to the pub to watch the MotoGP. Regardless of the weather, we headed off around 2:30 pm.
We started at the tail end of the Gotthard Pass out of Andermatt, then onto the Susten Pass. Still a whiteout at the top, but at least the roads were dry. We then popped in to see an old workmate at his family hut, but he wasn’t there! How rude of him, especially as we had to climb up a steep, gravelly, hilly road with switchbacks! So, we headed up the Grimsel Pass. We had done the whole of the Furka Pass yesterday in the rain, so we went up one side to see what it was like in the dry. Verdict… so much more fun! Possibly the setting changes on the bike contributed to this as well.
Then onto the Nufenen Pass and the other side of the Gotthard Pass back into Andermatt for a nice hot soup. We only did 5 passes, not the 6 we were meant to, but we did start late. Only 176 km. Seems weird, as we worked hard for it.
Bit of a white-out but roads were dry!
Roads, twists, and more twists!
No one home!
Windy roads ahead!
Day 03
Well, today was a tough one. We tackled seven passes: Oberalp Pass, Lukmanier Pass, San Bernardino Pass, Splügen Pass, Maloja Pass, Bernina Pass, and Forcola di Livigno. Some were fast and flowing, while others were tight, twisty, and steep—almost to stalling speed. Very challenging when two-up and fully loaded with gear on a behemoth of a bike!
At the top of Oberalp Pass is also home to the only lighthouse in the Alps—and the highest in the world. This replica lighthouse stands as a symbol of the source of the Rhine, which lies nearby. The original lighthouse is at the mouth of the Rhine near Rotterdam. We reached Livigno just in time for a rest and dinner at a wonderful restaurant that served the best Tiramisu! They even had a chocolate bomb dessert that they cracked open in front of you and then poured chocolate sauce all over. What a treat!
Are we there yet??
The highest lighthouse.
Sue's favourite dessert ever!
Day 04
What a blast today was! We stripped the luggage off the bike and tackled six passes: Bernina Pass, Albula Pass, Fuela Pass, Forcalz Pass, Pass Resia, and Ofen Pass.
We rode through Italy, Austria, and Switzerland. Although the Behemoth shed some weight, it still felt like a tank. Just after Albula Pass, we stopped for coffee at a charming spot with some delicious treats. Next, we visited a man-made lake created by a dam, which submerged a village. The only trace of it was the steeple of the town's church poking out of the water. The roads were superb, but the tunnels—one was 3.7 km long!—were mind-blowing. The weather is finally playing ball!
Day 05
Another good day with the weather. Suspension re-checked. Tyre pressure checked. Off we go! Went over the Passo del Foscagno in Bornio for a water. Had a look at a huge wooden cuckoo clock but didn’t have the patience to wait for it to chime!
We then headed off to do the Stelvio Pass. Apparently one of the 10 most dangerous passes. Not in my mind, I am sure I did a few worse ones a few days ago. Plus, the most dangerous thing about the pass is, what Francesco calls, “The Clarkson Brigade”. Lots of groups of sports cars whom drivers think they are Jeremy Clarkson!
After the Stelvio we did a “Roger” and Francesco suggested we try a new road he hadn’t been on, that took us into Valle Di Solden. Taste of my own medicine as it is usually me that veers off into unknown territory, back in the good old Waikato - NZ.
Good choice though as we ended up at a restaurant for gelato’s!
Back on the road for another detour, we headed to Val Senales, where we stumbled upon the smallest church I’ve ever seen and a stunning lake! We then made our way to our final destination for the day, Merano. At a scorching 33 degrees, we were relieved that the temperature would drop by 5:30 pm.
Dinner featured swordfish and pizza with pineapple (Sue’s favourite—she loves to tease the Italians).
Not waiting for a chime today.
Stelvio!
MORE Stelvio!
More.... wicked windy roads!
Day 06
Today, we had a quick breakfast and an early start to beat the heat. Our plan was to tackle 5 passes: Passo del Rombo, Passo di Monte Giovo, Passo del Brennero, Passo delle Erbe, and Passo Furcia. As we crossed into Austria via Passo del Rombo, we came across the Top Motorcycle Museum—definitely worth a visit if you're in the area!
You can park your bike on the Italian side and walk through the checkpoint to enter the museum. After a good wander, we headed down to San Leonardo and turned onto Passo Giovo, where we enjoyed lunch. Fun fact: No gluten-free options there—doh!
The warm weather called for a drink, and we had a sneak peek of the Dolomites, which we’ll explore tomorrow.
Another fun fact: While everyone raves about Stelvio, our guide is leading us through other passes that are just as thrilling (if not more) and a bit scary.
As your enter the museum you are totally shocked at the size and the amount of bikes!
Such an awesome view and windy roads up one of the passes. Photos just don't do it justice!
Day 07
Today was all about one incredible pass! We started by heading back into Austria, cruising through the valley and stopping at a café above Handergasse for a coffee.
Next up was the Grossglockner, offering stunning views! Francesco had a bit of fun racing a couple of Lamborghinis on the way up. At the top, there was a narrow, tricky paved section to navigate on The Behemoth, but thankfully, no sheer drops! Although not as high as Stelvio Pass, it felt like a bigger effort to reach. The weather, however, wasn’t playing nice—fog, rain, thunder, and lightning!
We turned back and retraced part of the Grossglockner before detouring to a glacier for lunch. After a brief weather break, we returned to Dobbiaco to dry off and enjoyed a short walk around town before dinner.
Top of the Grossglockner.
Very windy up this high!
Sneak peek of the glacier.
Day 08
Wow. Nine passes today: Tre Croci, Giau, Staulanza, Duran, Fedaia, Sella, Pordoi, Falzarego, and Valparola pass. It sounds like a lot, but they were small ones that looped us around the Dolomites! We headed out towards and through Cortina, where the rich and famous, like Tom Cruise, Jennifer Lopez, and Iron Man, go to ski. We didn’t stop there as we were told it’s extremely expensive. Plus, Tom said he couldn’t make it as he was filming for the next Mission Impossible film.
While we were heading out of Cortina, we were asked to pull over by the local police. They looked quite funny, all dressed up in their tight uniforms. But you realise they mean business as one did have a machine gun of sorts. Francesco did most of the talking. Sue convinced me not to get my camera out. It was just a routine check, so in ten minutes, we were on our way to the top of Passo di Giau for coffee.
We then carried on to Marmolada for lunch and an awesome handmade Tiramisu, with some more picturesque views of the Dolomites! On the way back, we popped into an old World War I museum, which was inside the actual fort where the soldiers fought. It was a brutal reminder of the effects of war and what men had to endure in the defence of their country.
That being said, we headed back to the hotel via Cortina to refuel. Had 5 km left on reserve! The V4 is quite the thirsty beast
Dolomites, here we come...
Some of the locals?
Day 09
Second to last day of riding. It’s all going by so fast. Hard to believe we are heading back to Milan, but not without some great roads! Eight passes today: Falzarego, Valparola, Gardena, Pinei, Costalunga, Lavaze, Brennero, and Santel. We retraced some of the passes we did yesterday, heading back through Cortina.
Stopped off at the top of Falzarego Pass for a coffee and a T-shirt. The cuckoo clocks were awesome. Had lunch at Lago di Carezza, where Francesco told us the legend of the lake. We ended up at Riva del Garda for the evening. Heading back south, though, means higher temperatures—32°C when we arrived.
Day 10
The last day of the Alps tour started with a chocolate breakfast and coffee. Francesco said we had enough time to head up to Hotel Paradiso for coffee. Halfway up, he took us into a 180-degree tight, tight, tight turn with a very steep incline, which you didn’t see coming as there was a building right at the apex of the corner. Riding the clutch, almost stalled, but made it! What did we get for it? Good coffee and stunning views of the lake.
Heading back to Milan, we did just two passes: Passo Ampola and Passo Crocedomini. We then dropped off the bike and, after winding down from a busy, hot ride, headed back into the city centre for dinner.
It was a pleasure meeting Francesco from Central Italy Motorcycle Tours. Such a wealth of knowledge of the Italian/Swiss Alps—and, of course, Italian cuisine! Loved the way there was no pressure with my sluggish learning with riding the Behemoth. Loved his style of stopping anywhere on the side of the road, even on the edge of a 1000-foot drop, just to take a photo.
✍️📸 Roger & Sue Pereira
